By Jess Malloy
Getting back into Climbing after a long break can be a humbling experience. At the beginning of the pandemic, many people (myself included) had big plans to come back to the gym after a month or so with a fair amount of contact strength and core stability from at-home training. That plan didn’t really last very long, unfortunately, and now that gyms are opening up (with COVID related restrictions) I have found myself yet again humbled on the wall.
Thankfully, this isn’t the first time I’ve had to learn how to come back after an extended break. Between extensive traveling and injuries, I’ve become very familiar with the strange sensation of muscle memory with weak muscles and have practiced checking my ego at the door. My yoga practice has proven to help me during these times and I feel it is worth sharing what I’ve learned.
Below are some helpful tips for returning to climbing and climbing training through the practice of yoga.
Be content where you are: Santosha
This is one of the Niyamas from the eight limbs of yoga and it’s usually translated as contentment. Thankfully, it’s not the kind of contentment that implies you need to take on a passive or idle approach to your climbing practice.
It’s more like the idea that is explored in Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing, “It’s all about perspective...If you define success too narrowly and failure too broadly, you will by definition (pun intended) fail more often.”
So basically, redefine your definitions of success and failure before you walk up to the wall. Recognize that your body today is different than your body yesterday and your body tomorrow. Recognize that success is how you define it.
Warm-up with intentional, slow movements
If you weren’t diligent about warming up before the pandemic, now is your chance to set a new rhythm. Before you get on the wall focus on moving your hips, shoulders, and wrists through their full range of motion. If you don’t know where to begin with warming up, we’d suggest trying the simplest and most common flow sequence in yoga; Surya Namaskar (Sun Salutations) A & B. Give extra attention to broadening your chest and moving your shoulders and hips in each pose. Move slowly and breathe fully.
Try:
3 rounds of Sun A [https://www.yogajournal.com/videos/salute-the-sun] and
3 rounds of Sun B. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWUHEucUwmM]
We also love the practice of CARS (Controlled Articular Rotations) and often find we can work them into a yoga flow.
Finish with climbing-specific movements on the wall
Take it easy
The benefit of muscle memory is that your body remembers how to do fluid movements and advanced techniques even if you’ve been out of the game for a few months. The challenge is that even though your brain might remember how to tell your muscles what to do, your body might not be prepared to do it.
During the first few sessions back keep Santosha at the front of your mind. You can practice this by
Making your goals for each session more focused on the enjoyment of climbing
Refining climbing techniques like flagging, heel hooking, etc.
Improving your breath work
Learning to read routes from the ground
In all this, practice presence above everything. Coming back to the rock is a great time to refine your climbing and humble your practice on the wall. You’ll be back to climbing grades in no time, but in the meantime enjoy the journey.